Exploring Italy's Eastern Coast from Malta to Venice
- Candace Ahlfinger
- Jan 4
- 9 min read
Our cruise on the Ponant Le Bougainville took us from Malta to Sicily and then up the eastern coast of Italy, a part of Italy we had not visited before.
Syracuse, Sicily, Italy
Our first stop was Syracuse, Sicily, a fascinating city bursting with history. (We visited Sicily many years ago and stayed for almost a week where we fell in love with the history, the food, and the people so we enjoyed seeing many sites for the first time while falling in love again with others.)
After docking at Syracuse, we took the excursion to the Archaeological Park which appealed to the history lover in me. The Latomia del Paradiso limestone quarry, the source of much of the stone used to build ancient Syracuse, was originally a dark, underground prison for more than 7,000 slave laborers, prisoners from the war between Athens in Syracuse in 413 B.C. The collapse of the quarry’s roof and the addition of plants have now transformed the area into a beautiful tree-filled oasis. (Syracuse was founded by the Greeks in 734 B.C. Romans overtook Syracuse in the 3rd century BC and remained in control of it until the fall of the Roman Empire in late 400 AD. After that, ownership of Syracuse changed many times and has included the Vandals, Byzantines, Muslims, Normans, Frederick II who was king of both Sicily and Germany.)
In addition to beautiful trees and landscaping, sculptures are dotted throughout the quarry. The Orecchio di Dionisio, a naturally occurring phenomena, is a 75 feet high grotto that extends into the cliffside and was named, by Caravaggio, after Dionysius who, legend has it, used the near perfect acoustics to eavesdrop on the prisoners and thus learn their plans.
The Archaeological Park also contains two theatres, one the 2nd century Anfiteatro Romano, which was originally used for gladiator fights and horse races. The Teatro Greco was a Greek theater for classical theater performances to an audience of 16,000 people. The theater’s commanding view over the nearby turquoise blue waters makes it even more outstanding.
We finished our tour with a lunch and wine stop at a family-owned estate. (Sicilian food is some of the best!)
Taormina, Sicily, Italy
The next day we arrived in Taormina, Sicily. (One of the great facts about a cruise is that you see many places. One of the bad facts is that you don’t get a deep look at any of the sites.)
We had been to Taormina many years before, but we were excited to visit again. We docked in Naxos, the first colony in Sicily. Ponant had arranged a bus for us to reach the Taormina which sits high above the Ionic Sea and so requires a steep hike, a cable car trip, or a twisty-turny ride in a vehicle to reach it. (Don’t be surprised if Taormina looks familiar. It has served as the setting for such shows as The Godfather and White Lotus.)
As in Syracuse, the many civilizations such as Greeks, Romans, Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Ottomans, Normans, Vikings, Germans, and probably more, resulted in a diverse culture which is even reflected in its language. Before television, many dialects of Italian were spoken with traces that can still be found. Accents and foods are different for each area of Sicily which was known as the Granary of Rome because of its abundant and excellent grain.
Taormina differs from many areas of Sicily because it has escaped destruction from earthquakes. The architecture, therefore, reflects ancient, medieval, and modern times. The most important historical site in Taormina is the Greek Theatre, the second largest in Sicily. (The amphitheater in Syracuse is the largest.) The original monolithic theater, built by the Greeks, was later enlarged by the Romans. Like the amphitheater in Syracuse, the theater, in addition to wonderful acoustics and views of the stage, overlooks the turquoise water far below it. The amphitheater is still used today for various performances.
Although the Greek Theatre is perhaps the most famous historic site in Taormina, other sites are scattered throughout the city. The smaller Odeon Amphitheatre was built by the Romans and lay hidden until 1892. It is tucked away near the Church di Santa Caterina d'Alessandria.
Other famous sites include the Taormina Cathedral dedicated to St. Nicholas, the Palazzo Ciampoli, and the Palazzo Corvaja.
Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to visit them all, but we did have time to sample the luscious cannoli and wind through the busy shopping streets that highlight ceramic workshops on every corner.
Of course, a cruise that specialized in Italian food and wine had to include a stop for both during the tour, so we went up Mount Aetna for wine tasting and lunch at Gambino Winery. (It’s difficult to beat eating a wonderful Italian meal and sampling wines from locally grown grapes while overlooking their volcano-side vineyards.)
Otranto, Italy
The next day of our cruise, we stopped on the mainland of Italy in Otranto, located on the heel of Italy’s boot. Because of its location at the confluence of the Ionic and Adriatic Seas, Otranto has had a varied past with lots of occupants. Neoliths, Greeks, Romans, Normans, Ottomans, and probably more that I have missed, have occupied this area over thousands of years. The largest changes began in the 1480s when the Ottomans appeared and killed 813 people who refused to change their religion to Islam. (The martyrs are still remembered on August 14.)
The city’s cathedral was built in 1088 over a temple to Athena, but the façade was destroyed. It wasn’t until 1163 that the archbishop commissioned the mosaic floor that still depicts multiple scenes using more than 600,000 tiles.
In fact, at 170 feet, the floor is one of the largest Medieval mosaics in all of Europe. In other parts of the cathedral, framed bone art lines the wall while in other parts, elegantly draped columns support the building. (Book a tour of the cathedral to learn about the captivating stories shown in the mosaics.) Nearby is the Chiesa (Church) di San Pietro with Byzantine frescoes adorning the walls.
Not to be missed is the Castello Aragonese with its ancient city walls and the fabulous overlook of the waters below. From the piazza, you can wander down the narrow streets for a bit of shopping or eating!
Not to be forgotten….another winery for our trip and this one with a very long history! In Scorrano, only about 20 minutes from Otranto, is Duca Carlo Guarini Winery which has been run by the same family for about 1,000 years--the duke who currently runs the winery is the 25th generation. We were able to tour the ancient concrete olive oil mill in the very creepy basement—but what a fun experience. The wine tasting that followed was a fun experience. The Salento area has only two primary types of grapes, Negroamaro and Primitivo. The winery is one of the oldest continually run family business in both Italy and the world. We loved both the wine and olive oil, which is why some of it made its way to our house upon our return.
Bari
Our next day’s stop was in Bari where we chose to take a food tour in this coastal Italian city that reflects its long history dating back to the Bronze Age. Our stops centered around the historic old town with its narrow streets lined with restaurants and colorful stores. We stopped at various food shops to sample the fantastic food. My favorite was our first stop at La Puccia for Panzerotti, pastry dough originally fried and filled with tomato sauce and cheese. (Now there are baked options and other fillings, but these were wonderfully luscious!) Our next stop was to sample focaccia bread that was more pizza-like than expected, but very good. Throughout the morning, we also tasted taralli, small, ring-shaped crackers, which are used for snacks in Bari. The local olive oil added its fantastic flavor to many of the dishes we sampled, but not at Martinucci where the cups overflowed with sugar-filled gelato.
While on the food tour, we also visited the street famous for the women vendors who make Orecchiette (little ear) pasta, the Bari Cathedral (Cathedral of San Sabino), the long city wall, and the Basilica of Saint Nicholas. (Think Santa Claus along with some of the saint’s bones.) Walking along the magnificent promenade overlooking the water was as much fun as wandering through the narrow streets. There are rickshaw tours if you don’t feel like walking, but exploring on foot was the best part for us.
Urbino
The next day brought a new city in which to dock, Ancona, but we chose to spend our day on Ponant’s tour to the Renaissance municipality of Urbino. (All the tours provided by Ponant were excellent. My only complaint was the earpiece system used which made it difficult to hear the knowledgeable guides.)
Both Ancona and Urbino are products of many civilizations that have ruled them over thousands of years. Urbino, however, is most famous for its Renaissance architecture and art.
Our first stop in Urbino was in the 15th century Ducal Palace, a UNESCO Word Heritage site. Inside the palace is the Galleria Nazionale delle Marche. This art museum highlights Italian Renaissance art, many of them religious works. We were fortunate to visit the recently reopened Duke’s Apartment that features both amazing woodwork and art.
The square that houses the Ducal Palace also is home to the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta which demonstrates the immense power of both types of power. The current dome was completed in 1801, so it is surprisingly light and neoclassical inside. (Three churches have stood on this site beginning in 1063.) Another nearby site to explore that, unfortunately, we didn’t have time for, is the house where Raphael was born. (Raphael’s works can be seen in the Galleria Nazionale delle Marche and in his birth house.)
Ravenna
Our last sailing stop along the cruise was in Ravenna, a stop that I had been looking forward to since seeing it as a cruise destination. It’s mosaics are breathtaking and reflect both religious and politics ideologies of the time.
I don’t want to sound like a broken record, but Ravenna was also ruled by multiple civilizations over its very long history. Part of its importance, though, sprang up because Honorius, the Western Roman emperor in the 5th century AD, feared for his life at the hands of barbarians and so moved his capital to Ravenna from Rome. Of course, as the capital, monuments then had to be built in keeping with the importance of the rulers. (Ravenna’s marvelous mosaics also reflect the fact that it was a major port for the Byzantine Empire.)
Our first stop during our intriguing walking tour in Ravenna was at the Basilica of San Vitale which was completed by the Roman emperor Justinian and consecrated in 547 AD. Before entering the basilica, however, we visited the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, a much smaller building on the same site that is one of the oldest edifices in Ravenna and one of the eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Ravenna. The small, unimposing building belies the beautiful mosaics within.
The basilica itself is of an unusual design, octagonal, but what captures your eye immediately upon entering are the amazing mosaics that represent both Biblical and political importance. Also not to be missed is the sacellum, which is a small shrine dedicated to St. Vitale who was buried alive in a well as punishment for his Christian beliefs. The sacellum marks the spot where St. Vitale was supposedly put to death.
Our next Ravenna stop was the Basilica di San Francesco. The basilica was built in the 5th century but little of that church remains. The present structure was almost totally rebuilt in 1793. The funeral for Dante Alighieri, author of Dante’s Inferno, was held here in 1321.
A large part of the beauty of this church requires 1 Euro to turn on the lights to see the water-flooded crypt that lies underneath. The flickering lights, the ancient mosaic floor, the sparkling coins tossed in by wishers, and the swimming goldfish give the crypt an out-of-this-world ethereal atmosphere.
The 6th century Basilica di Sant’ Apollinare Nuovo was our next Ravenna stop—and, yes, there is definitely a church pattern going on! Not surprisingly, all 8 of the UNESCO sites in Ravenna are Christian monuments due to the time period, the 5th and 6th centuries, in which they were constructed. (The 8 sites are the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, the Neonian Baptistery, the Basilica of Sant'Apollinare Nuovo, the Arian Baptistery, the Archiepiscopal Chapel, the Mausoleum of Theodoric, the Church of San Vitale and the Basilica of Sant'Apollinare in Classe.) Both walls of this basilica are covered with colorful mosaics. Unfortunately, the mosaics in the apse were removed in the 16th century.
We managed to see only 3 of the 8 sites, but each had something special that set it apart from the rest and made it well worth my anticipation and the time to view it.
Our final day onboard the Ponant Le Bougainville, we had the privilege of sailing into and docking in the harbor of Venice. (Large cruise ships cannot go through the passage due to the waves they create that threaten to flood the city.) We had visited Venice twice before, but we had never arrived by ship, which gives an entirely different perspective. We were also fortunate that we docked within easy walking distance to St. Mark’s Square.
It is here that I’ll leave this blog posting and continue the details of our Venetian visit in another post.
To follow our adventures, please click here and provide your email address.
For info on our three-day Venice visit, click here.
Want to learn about our visit to Malta? Click here.
Comments