We arrived at Zurich HB, Zurich’s central train station. The station also houses the huge Tourist Information Office where you can schedule tours and get maps, pamphlets, etc. The “L’ange protecteur” a huge, colorful, guardian Angel statue by Nikki de Saint Phalle, hangs overhead and protects both travelers and trains. The exterior of the station was copied from Paris and is Zurich’s answer to the Arc de Triomphe thanks to Napoleon’s influence after he invaded Switzerland in 1798. Outside the station, stands a statue of Alfred Escher, a prominent businessman and politician. Escher was one of the founders of modern Switzerland and Credit Suisse—just two of his many major accomplishments. (Alfred Escher is not the Dutch graphic artist!)
We had booked all hotels near train stations this trip, and the Boutique Hotel Helmhaus Zurich was no exception. The boutique hotel, like all of the hotels in which we stayed, had a staff that was always willing to help with recommendations and reservations. Their customer service made such a difference. After checking in, we, of course, explored the city before dinner at Raclette Stube, which was recommended by the hotel for staff for excellent raclette. (Raclette is another traditional Swiss dish. Much like fondue, it is melted cheese, but this time it is almost fried and then served with potatoes, gherkin pickles, and pickled onions. They also have bread.)
We enjoyed walking the narrow, winding streets after dinner on our way back to the hotel to get ready for the next day’s tour. We met our guide Maria at the train station for our walking tour through the Old Town. (We had booked the tour through Viator.) Directly across the street from the Zurich HB is the Bahnhofstrasse, a street famous for shopping that runs from the train station to lake. (According to Maria, the stores get more expensive as you get closer to the lake, and Sunday is the cheapest day to shop because all of the stores are closed.)
Zurich, like all of Switzerland, provides free, clear drinking water to anyone who is thirsty with its large fountains. (All you need is a bottle to refill. Don’t buy bottled water.) Zurich overflows with fountains—over 1,200 of them—most of which are pure spring water. (They are required to mark a fountain if the water is not potable.)
We walked through the Schipfe district, one of Zurich’s oldest. The houses were scheduled to be destroyed, but the beginning of WWI caused the destruction to be cancelled. Now, the streets are lined with active shops on the bottom floor with apartments above.
Our next stop was Lindenhof Square, the site of former Celtic and Roman ruins. The square even held a palace built by Charlemagne, the Holy Roman Emperor. Today, the square, which gets its name from the beautiful linden trees, provides a respite from the hustle and bustle of the city and a lookout over the Limmat River far below. (While we were in Zurich, the outdoor art exhibit, Open Your Eyes, stressed sustainability and gave observers thought-provoking ideas.)
St. Peter’s Church was an interesting site. The church has the largest clock face on a tower in Europe. The tower belongs to the city while the rest of the building belongs to the church.
Guilds have been especially strong in Zurich. They had political power and actually played a major part in government until 1798. Several quality restaurants are located in houses of guilds that can trace their history to 1336. (Look for flags that give clues to what the guilds’ trades were.)
The Munsterhof Square in front of the Fraumünster is the home of a special fountain which is sometimes turned into a free wine fountain since the winemakers’ guild is on square. This square, which is the largest in Zurich, turns into a Christmas market and a venue for music.
The Fraumünster (Church) towers over the city while the exterior hides the beauty within—five stained glass windows by Marc Chagall. Their ornateness stands in contrast to the severity of the remainder of the church’s Reformational lack of decoration. The Crypt Museum below highlights the Reformational changes, aka the destruction of Catholic statues, the abbey and monastery that were once on the site, and the history of the Fraumünster itself.
On the opposite side of the Limmat River stand the double towers of the Grossmünster (Frau—female. Gross—man). Entry to this church is free. Like the Fraumünster, this church has stained glass windows that provide light and beauty for the church. Though less visited, the Grossmünster, with its Protestant simplicity, is an intriguing church to visit.
Zurich is a fun city with restaurants, bars, and shopping. Visitors can go to the Lindt Chocolate Museum (We decided not to visit this new attraction even with its huge chocolate fountain. Instead, we spent more time exploring some of the multitude of small streets.) We took the short lake cruise on the Zurichsee which gave us an overview of the beaches with their multitudinous swimmers and the beautiful homes and hotels that start on the lakeside and climb the gently sloping hillsides. (On a clear day, the Alps hover in the background, a gentle reminder of the magnificent wonders Switzerland holds.)
And then…back on the train. This time to Basel. Click here for Basel info.
The information about our time in Grindelwald and Bern, click here.
For info on our visit to Zermatt, Switzerland, click here.
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